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This is a special phrase for Pynchon. It is used in ''V.'' (ppp.11and 438), ''The Crying of Lot 49'' (p.31), ''Gravity's Rainbow'' (p.489), ''Mason & Dixon'' (pp.258 and 260), and it is the very first sentence of ''Against the Day''. Apparently, ''Vineland'' is the only novel without this phrase.
See [http://against-the-day.pynchonwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=ATD_1-25 here] for a longer note on the significance of this phrase.